Thursday, February 20, 2014 San Andres
From Viewpoint in Xecul. Remnants of adobe buildings in foreground |
The road into San Andres was peppered with structures - homes, businesses, out buildings - in various stages of repair, construction, or dilapidation. I noted many adobe buildings with tile roofs. Once in San Andres we walked - straight uphill. We passed the celebrated Catholic church in San Andres in order to get to our muy alta (really high) destination. I huffed. I puffed. I puffed on my abuterol. I sat. Eventually, I succeeded. The final 50 yards was almost vertical, but all of us made it.
At the "top" (there was a lot more mountain behind us) there was a miniature version of the church, a view point and a place with three crosses. There were also smoldering oven-like things in front of them. Some of what I learned:
Dyed fabric can be seen in this image |
*San Andres was named by the Spanish invaders around 1560 The Mayan name is Xecul which in the local K'iche language means “below hills." (follow link for more on K'iche culture) Spanish forced the K'iche into Christianity and servitude. The colonial churches throughout Guatemala are painted white except for this one. My understanding is the church is centuries old and at some point, the K'iche painted the front and the statuary in the bright colors of the Mayan cosmovision. They were able to meld their native beliefs with the Catholic traditions. There are four important colors for the Mayan peoples: red, yellow, white, and black. Red relates to life and blood, green connects with creation, black upholds Mother Earth, and blue for the sky and water. (More on this in the next post.)
*Of the many characters on the church, are two jaguars. These are symbols not found on other churches as they relate to the Mayan traditions. Jaguars are among the spirit animals or naguals in their tradition. A person's nagual is not chosen-rather the nagual reveals itself. I am not clear on the specific relationship of the Jaguars to this particular place (not picking up on everything in Spanish), but it is a very visible representation of the Mayan culture in spite of invasion.
Catholic church in San Andres/Xecul |
*From the outlook we could see fabric hanging over the flat roofs and in the courtyards of several houses. Each house seemed to have a different color. Amaro told us that different family dye different colors. Many, many of the men in this town are in working in the United States. While they send money to their families, there are women and children fending for themselves. Dying cloth for tradition use (and tourist consumption) helps to keep families afloat.
There is much more so I will have a part II installment.
Sweet Mother Earth and Father Sky, you have not given us all of creation but have asked that we respectfully share your sacred space. Forgive us when we rip you apart and pollute you. Help us to see that harmony with all beings is what you wish for us. Amen
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